My “Kamby Bolongo” Moment in Sierra Leone

“Historical Study Tour of Sierra Leone” (#5 of 9)

Alex Haley’s research for his timeless novel Roots (1976) was launched with the memory of a few words passed down from a family elder called “The African.”  The words “Kamby Bolongo” led Haley to a griot in Gambia, West Africa, who informed him that “Kamby Bolongo” was the name of river near the village from which “The African” had been captured.  What a thrill it must have been to make the connection!

My “Kamby Bolongo” moment came about during a visit to Rogbonko Village, in the Temne District.  It’s the original site (one of two) where Sierra Leoneans have made “shuku blai” baskets, which are almost identical to Gullah Geechee sweetgrass baskets. Tour participant Nakia Wigfall, a 7th-generation sweetgrass basket sewer from Mt. Pleasant brought sweetgrass basket starters with her, to which Rogbonko basket sewers added their craftsmanship and established the first cross-continental coil basket combination of its kind.

Ron and Simeon at Rogbonko.JPG

Wigfall expressed surprise in discovering that the Sierra Leonean marsh grass, shuku blai, is identical to sweetgrass, the marsh grass in Gullah Geechee communities and that shuku blai basket makers also use palm leaves, which are similar to palmetto leaves.  Shuku blai basket makers dye the palm leaves, however, and use them to enwrap the sewn shuku blai.  Wigfall returned to Mt. Pleasant with four sweetgrass-shuku blai combo-blends and plans to further develop them into large fanner baskets that have started and will end with sweetgrass and to submit proposals to museums for their procurement. 

As we’d entered Rogbonko Village, I’d scanned onlookers’ faces, in search of shared family resemblances.  My maternal lineage is Temne (which I learned through DNA testing by africanancestry.com).  During the processional to meet with the elders, I danced excitedly and remarked frequently to smiling passersby, “Temne!  I’m Temne!”  “Anh-hahn!” was their response, before shaking my hand and then placing their hand over their heart or embracing me warmly.

Temne headdress.JPG

Unlike the welcoming ceremonies that we’d observed when we’d entered other villages, the Rogbonko Villagers first danced/marched to a ceremonial meeting site.  There was no standing while watching others drum or dance or perform acrobatics or masquerade. No, the Temne processional, led by male musicians with handmade wood and wind rhythm instruments, called for full participation by all.  It unfolded to “The Bubu Dance,” an engagement of rousing, rhythmic movement as dancers advanced a short distance, paused to dance at the stationary place along the way, and then advanced – again and again – to the designated site. I “Bubu dance-d” with joy and aplomb the entire way!

Rogbonko Music Instruments.JPG

Daise-Fam-with-Elders.jpg

            Wigfall assembled later with photographers, tour leaders, and filmmakers to present the completed shuku blai/sweetgrass baskets to the elders toward the end of the day. I asked the tour leader to inform the Town Chief that I was Temne. And then: KAM-BY BO-LO-O-O-NG-O!!  Chief Alhaji Turay proceeded to formally welcome me and my family, wife Natalie and children Sara and Simeon, into the Rogbonko community as Temne descendants, as citizens who can own land and pay taxes.

Ron welcomed by Town Chief.JPG

Well, well, well. The closest I’ve ever come to sewing a coil basket was making a corn husk mat as a Cub Scout, and I’ve never attempted to create a sweetgrass basket. But I’m proud to be sewn together with the cultural fabrics of music, dance, and love of history and heritage!